PORT ROYAL, SC TO CHARLESTON, SC

Thursday, April 23rd, 2015

Day 262
Miles Traveled: 74
Total Miles Traveled: 3318



  We casted off our lines at daybreak in preparation for the long travel day.  Like most all of the recent travel days, we spent time on numerous waterways.  We started on the Beaufort River and ended on the Cooper River.  In between, we coursed through 15 more - the Coosaw River, Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff, Rock Creek, Ashepoo River, Fenwick Cut, South Edisto River, Watts Cut, Dawho River, north Edisto River, Wadmalaw River, Wadmalaw Sound, Stone River, Elliott Cut, Wappoo Creek, and Ashley River.  The rivers were sometimes wide and sometimes narrow but all seemed to have frequent curves and bends.  The creeks were often shallow with narrow channels.  The cuts were mostly straight.  

  Much of the scenery was marshland with tall grasses on either side of the bank and flat lands beyond.  Some areas would have a collection of tall trees.  When homes appeared, they often had boat docks with long piers out to deep enough water for navigation. 

long pier out to this home's boat dock - typical of the lowcountry

  Elliott Cut (near Charleston) was particular exciting.  A section of this cut was particularly narrow and when we passed through the current was high.  There were lots of homes with boat docks in the area and idle speed was necessary.  Dan was running at 900 rpm which was even lower than our usual no wake speed of 1000 rpm.  Despite the low rpms, Seahorse was moving along at 9 mph.  Usually at 1000 rpms with minimal current we will travel at about 5 mph.  This is a good example of how strong the current in this section of the Atlantic ICW can be. 

Elliott Cut - narrow section

  Shortly after leaving Elliott Cut, Charleston, SC began to come into view.  We approached on the west side of the city which is bordered by the Ashley River.  The southern point of the city is where the Ashley River meets the Cooper River.  The waterfront on the east side of the city faces the Cooper River.  The east side is home to the Charleston City Marina and its Megadock - home to many large pleasure yachts. 

Charleston City Marina and its Megadock on the Ashley River

  Along the southwest side of the city, there were numerous beautiful waterfront homes. 

waterfront homes at Charleston, SC

  
  As we rounded the southern tip of Charleston a famous landmark was seen in the distance.  This landmark was the starting point of the Civil War.  Its name is Fort Sumter.

Fort Sumter

  We began heading north on the Cooper River and marveled at the large ocean going vessels docked on the west side of the city.  The Charleston Maritime Marina is on this side of the city and just north of the shipping port. 

west side of Charleston, SC on Cooper River

large ocean ship docked at Charleston, SC

  After getting ourselves settled into our slip, we looked at some brochures about restaurants that we got from the marina office.  Angie found one that looked interesting, A.W. Shucks.  We walked the mile to get to this restaurant and were not disappointed.  The house specialty was seafood casserole which was absolutely divine.  Shrimp, scallops, and crab were topped with a lobster cheese sauce and baked au gratin.  This dish was not to be outdone by the appetizer of hush puppies served with praline butter, which was actually more like a dessert.
  The restaurant gets its name from a local fisherman named Augustus Waring Shuck, whose friends called him A.W..  He was an expert fisherman and came from a long line of "watermen".  His family's presence in Charleston dates back to the 1700's.  In those days little commercial or recreation fishing existed, except for a specialized group using a wide assortment of small homemade boats with patchwork sails.  The sails were usually brightly colored and pieced together from bedding and clothes.  So numerous were these boats that the people on shore thought they looked like a swarm of mosquitoes skimming over the waves.  These fishing men came to be know as the Mosquito Fleet.  The Mosquito Fleet created and enriched the areas seafood recipes.  A.W. Shucks saw an opportunity to consolidate the catch and ensure its quick sale by starting a seafood company.  A.W. Shucks Seafood Company stood near to where the restaurant is located.

  After eating dinner, we walked up King Street.  Along this street are many shops and restaurants located in old buildings and is a bustling part of the city. 

King Street in Charleston, SC

  When we returned to the marina, there were two ships passing along the Cooper River.  One was coming in from the ocean and the other was returning.  The size of these ships is impressive, even from a distance they looked massive.  They crossed each other's paths right in front of us. 

two ships passing on Cooper River in front of Charleston Maritime Marina

Dan with ships in background