DOVER ISLAND, TN TO CLARKSVILLE, TN

Saturday, August 30th to Sunday, August 31st, 2014

Day 26-27
Miles Traveled Saturday: 36
Total Miles Traveled: 711



  We started out the day on Saturday earlier than usual (about 6:30am) to try and get to the next port before predicted afternoon rain and storms.  The sunrise was beautiful.  We never tire of seeing the beautiful scenery in a majestic glow.

Sunrise over Cumberland River at Dover Island, TN

  For most of the cruise today, we did not see any homes or industry along the river banks, just trees and some small rolling hills.  We arrived at Clarksville Marina in (guess where) Clarksville, TN just as the rain was beginning to start.  There were many pleasure craft trying to get off of the water just as we were pulling into the harbor.  We had to play "dodge 'em" to get to our slip.

Clarksville Marina entrance

  
  Sunday morning was "rain, rain, go away".  Fortunately, the dock we where at was covered, so Dan did get a little cleaning done on the boat.  By early afternoon the rain stopped and we took a cab to downtown to see the city sites.  Clarksville has put together a nice walking tour which includes a brochure to give history about some of the buildings. 
Here is a link for the brochure:  http://clarksvillecvb.com/content/files/walk_clarksville_08.pdf 
Clarksville, TN's early economic development was trade and commerce on the Cumberland River and the tobacco industry.  Clarksville, TN used to be the second largest planters' tobacco market in the United States, and, by 1855 it's type 22 tobacco was labeled the "stongest in the world". 

  Some of the highlights were:

The Customs House:  Built in 1898 in response to the flourishing tobacco trade, it served as the U.S. Post Office and Customs House for collection of tobacco taxes.  It now is Tennessee's second largest general interest museum.  We did not go through this museum due to time constraints. There are 4 copper eagles perched on the corners. 

Customs House

Montgomery County Courthouse: The original structure was built in 1878 and was the city's fourth courthouse.  It has been reconstructed twice due to a fire in 1900 and a tornado in 1999.

Montgomery County Courthouse

Cumberland Bank and Trust:  It was built in 1874 as home for B.O. Keesee, president of Cumberland Bank and Trust.  It once served as the city's hospital, but now is used as a bank. 

Cumberland Bank and Trust

The Children's Fountain:  This doesn't have any significant historical background.  It was constructed in honor of a local man who enjoyed downtown Clarksville.  It was one of Angie's favorite sites seen on the walk. 

The Children's Fountain

  For those boaters traveling the Cumberland River from Grand Rivers, KY to Nashville, TN, the Clarksville Marina is a great place to stop and even spend a day or two.  For more info about the marina go to: http://www.clarksvillemarina.com/
   



  

CADIZ, KY TO DOVER ISLAND, TN

Friday, August 29th, 2014

Day 25
Miles Traveled: 32
Total Miles Traveled: 675


  We enjoyed a lot of beautiful scenery and saw a lot of wildlife on Lake Barkley.  Most of the day's cruising was along the shores of Kentucky and Tennessee wildlife refuges.  There are many islands on Lake Barkley and one section is often called the "Thousand Islands of the Cumberland".  It was very important to pay close attention to the navigation buoys is this section of the "lake" to avoid running onto a sand bar.

"Thousand Islands of the Cumberland"

  Most of the wildlife that we saw were birds, but we did see a couple deer running on one of the islands.  The most common birds seen were seagulls and great egrets, but we did catch some views of ospreys (one was eating his catch of the day).

Great Egret

Seagulls on small rock island

Osprey eating his catch

 Fort Donelson, the site of the first major victory for the Union, is along the Cumberland River shoreline.  The battle took place from Feb 11th to 16th, 1862 with General Ulysess S. Grant defeating General Simon B. Buckner, thus earning him major general status and the nickname "Unconditional Surrender Grant".  

Fort Donelson

  The Surrender House, also known as the Dover Hotel, lies just upriver from the battle site.  It was built in 1851 and was the headquarters of General Buckner during this famous battle. 

Dover Hotel/Surrender House

  As we cruised further along, the river became more narrow and the islands disappeared - giving it the appearance of a river and not a lake.  
  Just upriver from Dover, TN is Dover Island and it was a quiet and calm anchorage.  

GRAND RIVERS, KY TO CADIZ, KY

Tuesday, August 26th to Thursday, August 28th, 2014

Day 22-24
Miles Traveled on Thursday: 27
Total Miles Traveled: 643


  Tuesday and Wednesday we stayed at Green Turtle Bay Marina and Resort.  This was a great place to stop and relax for a few days and have some repair work done on the boat.  The port side electrical receptacles had stopped working a few days back, and we were able to get them fixed.  Our TV also decided to quit working.  We ordered one from WalMart and had it shipped to the marina.  So now we have a functioning TV again, although we haven't watched any since starting The Loop.  Once all our jobs were done, we relaxed by one of two pools available to guests at the marina. 

  We also ate two great meals with new "looper" friends.  We took a golf cart, with Dan and Cheryl aboard "Jus Pokin", to the famous Patti's restaurant.  Patti's 1880's Restaurant serves a fabulous 2 inch pork chop, which Dan and I split and we still brought some leftovers home.  However, the best part of this meal was dessert - 17 choices.  Our choice was the Boo Boo Pie - which was like a Mounds candy bar pie.  YUM !!
To see a list of all the scrumptous dessert options we had to pick from go to: http://www.pattis-settlement.com/pattis_menu_dinner.htm#dessert


  Green Turtle Bay is a first class marina and resort with lots of amenities.  It is a great place to stay by water, or by land, for a week or long weekend.  They even provide turtles to greet you as you arrive.  

Welcoming Turtle at Green Turtle Bay Marina and Resort

For more about Green Turtle Bay Marina and Resort click on: http://www.greenturtlebay.com/

  
  Thursday we cruised upriver on the Cumberland River through Lake Barkley.  Although it is a very wide body of water, many areas are shallow and staying in the marked channel is a must.  This channel winds back and forth across the "lake" several different times.  

  Of interest was the Kentucky State Penitentiary which sits along the shoreline.  Also known as "The Castle on The Cumberland", this is Kentucky's only maximum-security prison.   The main building was completed in 1888.  

Kentucky State Penitentiary

  We arrived at Lake Barkley Marina early afternoon.  We met many nice people there and were given a pontoon boat ride tour of the Little River by some of the local boaters. 
  The day ended with dinner at the Lake Barkley State Park Lodge with a couple, Rick and Monica, who own a boat just like ours.  They are currently planning their Great Loop trip which will start in Fall of next year.  They were docked at Lake Barkley Marina just 2 slips down from us. 
  

CUMBERLAND TOWHEAD ISLAND, KY TO GRAND RIVERS, KY

Monday, August 25th, 2014

Day 21
Miles Traveled: 32
Total Miles Traveled: 616


   We were both very excited about entering the Cumberland River and traveling a new waterway.  The Cumberland River is about 700 miles long, but only 381 miles are navigable.  There are 4 dams on the Cumberland River that form four "lakes" - Barkley Lake, Cheatham Lake, Old Hickory Lake, and Cordell Hull Lake.


  Smithland, KY, the first town that we passed, was at the confluence of the Ohio River and the Cumberland River.  It is reported to be the oldest incorporated town on the Ohio River.  Just along the river bank is the Gower House.  In about 1780, it served as a luxury inn for travelers on the Ohio River.  Several presidents stayed here, and, it was used as a backdrop for the motion picture "How the West Was Won".  

Gower House

  Previous days on the Ohio River was mostly flat land.  Upon entering the Cumberland River, we started to see hills and bluffs again.  Bissell Bluff is the highest bluff on the Cumberland River between the Ohio River and Barkley Dam.

Bissell Bluff

  Barkley Lock and Dam had the highest lift we have had so far on this journey.  It has a lift (if going upriver) or drop (if going downriver) of 57 feet.  This lock releases 37.5 million gallons of water every time it is emptied.

Inside lock at Barkley Lock and Dam

  The view leaving Barkley Lock was much different than that before the lock.  The Cumberland River, before Barkley Lock and Dam, is narrow with many bends. After the lock, there is a large body of water called Barkley Lake.  This is a very popular boating area for the state of Kentucky and neighboring states. 

Entering Barkley Lake

  We ended the day at Green Turtle Bay Marina.  We took a swim in their pool to get some relief from the heat.  It has been extremely hot the past several days, with heat index up to 105 degrees.  

HURRICANE ISLAND, KY TO CUMBERLAND TOWHEAD ISLAND, KY

Sunday, August 24th, 2014

Day 20
Miles Traveled: 31
Total Miles Traveled: 584



  The anchorage at Hurricane Island was very calm once the storm blew through.  The anchor so far has been working great.  We like anchoring behind islands because it usually gives very good wind and barge wake protection.  
  We planned a short travel day due to extreme heat and humidity.  The heat index was 105 - very hot!!  


  We passed through our last lock (Smithland) on the Ohio River until the Fall of 2015 when we reenter this river.  One website that we have found very helpful is the Corp of Engineers Locks Website.  It gives you the river conditions and lock status of all those managed by the Corp of Engineers.  The Lock Status provides information about how long the wait times are for the barges locking through, which could be an indication that there may be a delay for recreational boats (although not always).  It also gives information about lock repairs and if any of the bollards (floating things to tie off to in the locks) are not functioning.  For those boaters out there the website is: http://corpslocks.usace.army.mil/lpwb/f?p=121:1:0::NO:::   


  Like the Mississippi River, the Ohio River, just downriver from Smithland Lock and Dam, has wing dams.  These are man made barriers (usually of rock) that extend partway into the river.  This forces water into a fast-moving center channel which reduces the rate of sediment accumulation in the channel, thus helping to maintain a deep enough channel for navigation.

Wing Dams on Ohio River

  Before going to our anchorage, we got a sneak peek of the next day - The Cumberland River.  In this picture the Ohio River is on the left and the Cumberland River is on the right.  There is a lot of tow boat traffic in this area and communicating with the captains, so as not get run over, is a good idea.  The past several days we have talked with a number of them because the Ohio River has been very tortuous, and a plan on how to pass is often necessary.  For those boaters out there, DO NOT BE AFRAID to hail these tow boat captains on your VHF if you are unsure about how to navigate around them.  They have always been courtesy and glad that we spoke with them. 

Ohio River far left - Cumberland River center and to the right

  We discovered that even tow boats run aground.  This towboat ran aground at the tip on the island that we anchored behind.  We know this because when we hailed him on the VHF with our intention to pass behind and by him, he advised us that he couldn't "hit us if he wanted to" because he was aground on the sandbar.  We watched as he detached from the barges and went along side to push them off.  He was successful and off he went up the Cumberland River.  

What is wrong with this picture? Tow boats usually don't push the sides of the barges!

We think this falls under the category - "You never know what you are going to see on the river.".  This is the first tow boat we have ever seen aground.


  We found a great anchorage behind Cumberland Towhead Island.  The horse flies thought it was a good location as well.  They buzzed around all afternoon.  Dan was not a friendly host.  Dan - 9 and counting,  Horseflies - 0  

   

EVANSVILLE, IN TO HURRICANE ISLAND, KY

Saturday, August 23rd, 2014

Day 19
Miles Traveled: 97
Total Miles Traveled: 550


  In this section of the Ohio River there are many sand bars and islands.  The terrain is mostly flat with little development. The most sizable town was Mt. Vernon, IN.  It is the southernmost town in Indiana. 

Mt. Vernon, IN

  We passed by the Wabash River.  This is the river where Dan learned to water ski as a boy.  The river is nearly 500 miles long.  There is one dam with no lock at mile 411 and is the longest unimpeded river east of the Mississippi River.  

Wabash River enters the Ohio River

  A famous cave lies along the Illinois bank.  Cave-In-Rock is a 55 foot wide cave which was a lair for some notorious villains.  It was used by the Sturdevant Gang of river pirates and the murderous Harpe Brothers, to name a few.  For more history and information about the state park located there go to: http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/r5/caverock.htm#History

Cave-In-Rock

Cave-In-Rock

  We ended our day anchored behind Hurricane Island, KY.  The sunset this evening was beautiful from start to finish.  One of the prettiest we have seen. 

Sun beginning to set at Hurricane Island

Sunset at Hurricane Island

EVANSVILLE, IN - VISIT

Wednesday, August 20th to Friday, August 22nd, 2014

Day 16-18
Miles Traveled: 0
Total Miles Traveled: 453


  The past few days we spent visiting many of Dan's family - Mother, sister, cousins, and all their families.  Seahorse was safe and sound at Inland Marina in Evansville, IN.  


  On Friday we took a tour of the LST-325.  Dan's cousin, David (also our taxi driver), gave us a VIP tour of the ship.  He volunteers his time to help restore and maintain this historic ship.  LST stands for Landing Ship Tank.  It is designed to land battle-ready tanks, troops, and supplies directly onto enemy shores.  The LST-325 was launched on Oct. 27th, 1942.  She participated in several operations during World War II, most notable was D-Day on Omaha Beach, Normandy.  Her last "tour of duty" was with the Greek Navy from 1964 to 1999.  In 2000, she was reacquired by the U.S. and was sailed back to Mobile, Alabama in 2001 by a  22 person crew of all volunteers with an average age of 72.  The LST-325 is one of only two World War II LST's to be preserved in the United States.

LST-325 docked at Evansville, IN

Dan manning a gun station of LST-325

Captain Angie at the helm of LST-325

For more information about the LST-325 go to: http://lstmemorial.org/   

FRENCH ISLAND, IN TO EVANSVILLE, IN

Tuesday, August 19th, 2014

Day 15
Miles Traveled: 26
Total Miles Traveled: 453


  We had a short travel day.  The river was in great shape, very little debris and very calm water.  The weather was very hot and humid, which was a change from the previous days where we actually were having to wear sweatshirts until late afternoon.

  We docked at Inland Marina in Evansville, IN. 

Evansville, IN

  We are leaving Seahorse at Inland Marina in Evansville, IN for several days while we visit with Dan's Mother and other relatives who live in nearby Mt. Carmel, IL.  Dan's cousin, David, is providing us with taxi service to and from the marina.  Thanks David !!  

LEAVENWORTH, IN TO FRENCH ISLAND, IN

Sunday, August 17th to Monday, August 18th, 2014

Day 13-14
Miles Traveled Monday: 103  
Total Miles Traveled: 427



   Sunday we stayed at anchor near Leavenworth, IN due to weather.  It ended up being both a productive and relaxing day.  We both got some jobs done off of the to do list and also got in some relaxation later in the afternoon.  It rained off and on the whole day, sometimes heavy rainfall.  We patted ourselves on the back about out the decision to stay at anchor.  As we learned on our shake-down cruise, the schedule has to be flexible, and often is changed due to weather.


  Monday was a record setting day of 103 miles in one day.  We were underway by 7:00 am and arrived at our anchorage 12 hours later.  We take turns at the helm (driving) - averaging one hour on and one hour off.  This way neither of us gets to tired and helps us both stay alert.  We alternate who makes lunch and we take turns eating.  This allows us to travel further in a day or get to our location sooner for exploring.    

  The terrain has changed from large hills to small hills and flat land, and still there are very few towns or industry right along the riverbank.  One interesting home we did see looked like a lighthouse.

Lighthouse house on Ohio River

  No day would be complete without saying "You never know what you are going to see on the river.".  Do polar bears really live and play on the Ohio River?  Apparently they do. 

Polar Bear on Ohio River

  Our journey ended at an anchorage off of French Island, IN.  No anchorage would be complete without a beautiful sunset. 

Sunset at French Island, IN anchorage

LOUISVILLE, KY TO about LEAVENWORTH, IN

Saturday, August 16th, 2014

Day 12
Miles Traveled Today: 60 
Total Miles Traveled: 324



  Another beautiful sunrise started the day off for our continued journey down the Ohio River. 

Another sunrise on the Ohio River

  
  












Louisville, KY was a site to see from the river with her river boats docked out front. 

Downtown Louisville, KY

  

  Angie reached a milestone this day.  She entered waters down river that she has never seen.  However, this almost did not happen due to one chamber at McAlpine Lock and Dam being down.  The barges were backed up for miles, and we were told at 8:00 am that it would be after midnight before we could lock through.  A down bound tow boat, the "Daniel Wise" (this tow boat's name), offered to let us lock through with him.  This was a new experience for us.  We had never locked through with this size of tow.  It was the largest tow and barge configuration that can travel on the Ohio River - 3 barges wide and 5 barges long.  There was just enough room in the chamber for both us both.  We had a successful lock through and were on our way without much delay thanks to the kind river captain of the "Daniel Wise".  

Seahorse in lock with tow boat "Daniel Wise"

Back of lock wall - we just fit.

  The McAlpine Lock and Dam is different from some of the other lock and dams on the Ohio River.  In order for it to be built, a canal had to be dug around the "Falls of the Ohio" to make this section of the Ohio River navigable.  The canal was started in 1825 and the first boat passed through the lock in 1830.

  

  The river this day had practically no river front towns or industries.  It was mostly trees and smaller hills. We ended the day anchored out from the Blue River which is just upriver a few miles from Leavenworth, IN.    

LOUISVILLE, KY CONTINUED

Friday, August 15th, 2014

Day 11
Miles Traveled Today: 0
Total Miles Traveled: 264



  We felt we couldn't leave Louisville, KY without seeing the Louisville Slugger Museum and a Bourbon Museum.  

  The Louisville Slugger Museum, like many other museums in Louisville, was walking distance from the dock.  The museum offers a tour of the factory which was worth the money.  We actually got to see some of the bats being made for some major league players.  It was interesting to watch.  The trademark bat "The Louisville Slugger" got it's name after the player it was made for.  The company, "J.F. Hillerich, Job Turning", made it's first professional baseball bat in 1884 for Pete Browning (the star slugger for the Louisville Eclipse team).  The bat was turned by Bud Hillerich, son of the owner, J. Frederick Hillerich.  J.F. was not really interested in making professional baseball bats, but, it is a good thing that he listened to his son.  J.F. was hoping to make his money on butter churns.  Fortunately, his son, Bud, had better ideas, and the company is a thriving business today making 1.8 million bats per year and during peak season, in the Spring, will make about 5,000 bats per day.  WOW!!  In front of the museum is a 120 foot long baseball bat which weighs 68,000 pounds. 
For more info about this factory and its history go to:  http://www.sluggermuseum.com/about/

Louisville Slugger Museum Entrance

  The next stop was for lunch at the Down One Bourbon Bar.  Dan got a flight of bourbon - 3 different varieties to try.  Angie tried one and confirmed that she still does not like bourbon. 

Dan with his bourbon flight at Down One Bourbon Bar

  We ended the afternoon by going to the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience.  You get a historical tour, a look at a scaled down operating Artisanal Distillery, and a taste test of their bourbon.  This tour is very well done and should not be missed if visiting Louisville.  Evan Williams was known as the jack-of-all-trades - stone maker, politician, entrepreneur.  But, his biggest accomplishment was making whiskey.  He was Kentucky's first commercial distiller and built his distillery on the banks of the Ohio River at Louisville, KY in 1783. 
Check it out at:  http://www.evanwilliams.com/visit.php

Evan Williams Bourbon Experience Lobby

  The evening was completed with dinner at Manny and Merle (Mexican mod food - meaning specialty tacos) and drinks at Stevie Ray's Blues Bar.

Dan outside of Stevie Ray's Blues Bar

  Louisville, KY is a great place to visit.  There are lots of things to see and do and many great restaurants.  http://www.gotolouisville.com/index.aspx
  But, it was time for us to continue to move down river as there are many more places we want to see.